A Very Vanuatu Census

Haos Gel Numba Two

About two weeks after I got back from New Zealand, I was sitting at the computer in the family room playing my very addictive computer game, Civilisation:  Call to Power.  Unlike today, when I have Pocahontas II playing in the background because Haos Gel Numba One and Two, Marie and Anais, are watching it, that day was a quiet one.  I heard a bus door slide open and then slide shut outside (remember Vanuatu buses are vans).  I wondered who that would be since Marie and Anais were here and very few other people arrive here in a bus.

Then a guy came walking down the path to the front door.  He was wearing a name badge and carrying what looked to be a questionnaire of some sort.  I assumed he was from the Census.

Vanuatu has been doing a Census.  Our house was marked in July or August with a little green post-it note over the front door.  When they came to put that up they asked how many people lived here and then we were told the numbers on the paper would identify our house for the Census being done in November.  This is needed because outside town the streets are not named and even in town the houses are not numbered.  At the time, I thought, “There is no way that little post-it note is going to stay there for four months.”

Race Day in Paradise

Fashions Arriving at Vila Race Day 2000

Melbourne has its Melbourne Cup.  Auckland has its Auckland Cup.  Louisville has its Kentucky Derby and not to be out done, Port Vila has its Kiwanis Fosters Cup.  Once a year for the past 13 years, a paddock surrounded by road, sea and jungle becomes the centre of Vanuatu’s racing scene.  Never mind that Vanuatu’s “racing scene” is a one-day wonder, thousands, including several international horsy people, turnout in force to watch the horses race and the people parade.  This year we were lucky enough to even have a full-blooded thoroughbred running in the race.

This event is the talk of the town for months before and after the race.  And, the week leading up to the race is full of events, including a swanky Race Ball and a Calcutta Night.  All proceeds from all events go to support various community projects. 

It was the morning after and Rob and I and some friends were sitting around a table in the fabulous Tamanu Beach Club dining pavilion.  We watched as one deep blue wave after another rose up out of the sea then flashed into a bright aqua blue just before erupting into white as it hit the dark table reef.  As the resulting foamy white and black mass of water surged over the reef toward the sandy white beach in front of us we reminisced about the event of the day before.

A Tale of Vanuatu Celebration

Turn of the Century Vanuatu Independence Day

The first volley was fired.  I flinched a bit and then the shots rang out again for a second and then a third volley.  I was still standing.  I checked for holes and then for blood.  No, none, thank god they remembered to load the blanks again this year.  We had survived our second Vanuatu Independence Day flag raising ceremony.